Used/Verified icemaker Module (with motor) for GENUINE OEM Whirlpool & Amana +

$21.12 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store weneedbucks
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Location: San Angelo, Texas
Ships to: US,
Item: 325004795348

All returns accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted
whirlpool + Amana + Maytag + some Sears:whirlpool + Amana + Maytag + some Sears
Type:Icemaker
Power Source:Electrical
WHP 106…………….control module:WHP 106…………….control module
MPN:106.6266…….

Ever wonder why other sellers of these modules DO NOT show the front dial/wheel and only the interior side? then keep reading………..This is a used/verified module that has been checked out and bench tested. It fits many makes of icemakers notably Whirlpool, Amana, Sears and others. If your icemaker looks like this and operates on 110/115/120 volts a/c then it will work. Replaces modules: 626613 / 626633 / 626636 / 626639 / 626640 / 626661 / 626662 / 626687 / W10122519 / W10122559 and others. Replaces modules found on icemakers with Whirlpool part #4317943 / and Amana part #D7824706Q and Amana (D7824702 through D7824706). This is a genuine (OEM) = Original Equipment Manufacturers part. In the first and last pictures the 2 white arrows point to the fact that these are GENUINE “FSP” parts (FSP is a division/vendor of Whirlpool). A genuine FSP part will have (left arrow indicating FSP stamped on “hood/covering”of the drive motors’ output gear and right arrow pointing at large commutator wheel/dial will have writing (may be either black, red, orange or blue) ALL around the front egde. A non-FSP (generic) module will exhibit nothing on the “hood/covering” of drive motors’ output gear and ONLY “DO NOT ROTATE MANUALLY” with nothing else on the other half of the large commutator wheel/dial. I do not guarantee these (although verified) because there are many things that will prevent an icemaker from making ice and since I do not know someone elses level of expertise/knowledge I cannot know this is the part that is needed. Rest assured I will do my best to give tips on how to determine which part is needed BEFORE buying but also realize nothing can take the place of “on location” diagnostics. If you are going to ask operational questions and/or check your own unit, please know how to properly use and have an accurate temperature tester, voltmeter, ohmmeter and water pressure checker. The following actions are to be done with electricity TOTALLY DISCONNECTED. A TYPICAL QUESTION = My icemaker has ice in the unit but it will not harvest this ice into the bucket/container. RESPONSE = First, remove your icemaker from freezer & relocate to a work/table area. After all ice & water has been removed, then let unit dry thoroughly OVERNIGHT. Next day carefully inspect the mold (area where ice is made/formed at) & take special note of condition of coating on mold; if it is peeling or cracking then DO NOT waste your time on it and replace the unit. If mold condition looks good, remove front cover, then remove the 3 corner screws that hold module onto the black or (white) housing, push/pry metal rod away from black (or white) housing and towards the fill cup at end of IM to dislodge it from the module. Module can now be pulled straight back from the unit. Look at housing where module was just removed from and see 2 male metal prongs along the bottom (these are connectors that are in line with the heater imbedded on underside of mold; check heater for continuity and a NO grounding condition. If you know you have 120 volts a/c to the icemaker (when installed) & mold/heater checks OK then only 3 things left. #1 = you MUST have at least a freezer temperature of 0°F to + 8°F. #2 = the icemakers thermostat (within the black or white housing) must close upon responding to a good freezer temp which starts the harvest cycle. #3 = when all other systems are “GO” then it is up to the module drive motor to turn the rotational fingerbar (ejector blades) & harvest the ice. Hope this helps in your systematic diagnosis. Thanks, Ray! P.S. I have assumed from this question that since there is ice which was not being harvested in the mold that you do have an adequate incoming water supply of at least 30 PSI AND (40 to 60 is much better) that your icemakers’ fill nozzle IS NOT frozen shut (which is located in the refrigerator just above the icemakers fill cup when icemaker is installed in refrigerator! (a frozen shut fill nozzle is the result of a less than 30 PSI water supply pressure AND/OR an internally leaking (BAD = no positive shutoff) icemakers’ water valve)! ALL U.S. territories, Alaska and Hawaii buyers must inquire for shipping prices! I sell ONLY to lower 48 states at these shipping prices = Shipping via USPS Ground Advantage mail for $6.50I have lots of parts for icemakers, many good used and a wide selection so if in need ask a question; you can send up to 5 pics per message thru ebay just click on “attach photos”!

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